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EDITORIAL SECTION - EXMOOR & QUANTOCK HILLS RIDING ROUTE INFORMATION

Exmoor National Park and the Quantock Hills AONB have some of the best outriding you could ever hope to find. It is hugely varied and interesting - sometimes challenging and sometimes meandering and relaxing, this beautiful area offers masses of fun for you and your horse

Supported by the Sustainable Development Fund www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk


Introduction BHS Route Folder


ROUTE 5 - Simonsbath & Exford
ROUTE 6 - Malmsmead Coastal Path & Culbone
ROUTE 7 - Malmsead, Brendon Common & The Doone Valley
An Introduction to Exmoor Riding Route 5 - Simonsbath & Exford
Distance: 16 Miles
Travelling over wild open moorland, through rolling hills and combes and along quiet country lanes, ride 5 offers you the chance to experience some of the finest scenery in central Exmoor. Being high up for much of the time provides plenty of opportunities for enjoying the many fantastic views, taking pictures and wildlife watching. The route is hilly in places and should only be tackled by a reasonably fit horse and rider.

There are some ‘watering holes’ for horses along the route, but other than at Simonsbath and Exford facilities for riders are not so plentiful. Riders are advised to take their own food and drink.

Points of Interest on Route 5...
• It is possible to start Ride 5 from either Simonsbath or Exford. However, it is worth noting that Ashcombe car park at Simonsbath is larger than the car park at Exford, and has public toilet facilities, including disabled toilets. There is also an information board providing you with details on Exmoor’s rights of way and bridleway network and new Open Access Land.

• Ashcombe car park is situated down a dirt track, on the right hand side past the church as you come into Simonsbath on the B3223 and B3224 from Dulverton and Exford respectively.

• Simonsbath itself is a quiet nineteenth-century village created by the Knight family, who bought the area from the Crown as part of the former Royal Forest of Exmoor. It is a popular starting point for walks and picnics along the River Barle.

• The route initially takes you up the B3223 a short way before heading off up onto farmland. As you climb up above the River Exe the farmland gives way to high open moorland and views of the distant hilly grasslands known as Exmoor Forest. The area is characterised by tussocks of purple moor-grass which turns white in the winter months.

• Skylarks are easily distinguished by their glorious song as they hover overhead, whilst meadow pipits can be easily seen flitting around in low vegetation.

• As you come off the moorland and begin your decent to Exford, you ride through an series of tunnel-like Beech Tree Hedgerows that over hang the road. This is a typical feature of many country lanes on Exmoor and impressive for the way in which they distort the light.

• At Hillhead Cross being on a horse is an advantage as you can see over the immediate bank out across beautiful rolling countryside.

• Exford is an attractive village set around a green. It acts as a service centre for central Exmoor and is a favourite riding location for locals and visitors alike. Being roughly half way round it is a great place for a lunch stop. Services and facilities here include, a choice of pubs and restaurants, tea rooms, shop, post office, newsagents, car park, garage, ENPA Local Information Point and accommodation.

• Travelling along some of the most peaceful country lanes on Exmoor, you come to Pennycombe Water where you will find a picturesque little ford and welcome refreshment for your horse.

• In the summer the moorland and farmland are alive with the sounds of grasshoppers and flitting butterflies. There are many wild flowers and plants to admire, including fox glove, heather and gorse and ????

• On an impressive natural knoll in the Barle valley are the remains of Cow Castle, an Iron Age hillfort, built between 2000 and 3000 years ago. The traces of the enclosing ramparts - an impressive bank and ditch - can still be traced around the hill.

Having completed your 16 mile ride, why not take a break and relax in Simonsbath. Services and facilities include a pub, tea rooms, shop, car park and toilets, 2 Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA) Local Information Points and accommodation.

All you wanted to know about Beech trees...
Beech trees grow at greater altitudes on Exmoor than anywhere else in Britain. The country's highest beech wood is at Birch Cleave at Simonsbath, with trees growing up to 350 metres (1200 ft) above sea level. In hedgebanks they grow up to 490 metres (1500ft) above sea level.

Beech was one of the last trees to reach Britain after the Ice Age and before the English Channel was created. There is a debate as to whether it reached Exmoor on its own or was introduced. It seems to have been on the edge of Exmoor in prehistoric times and continuously since the Romans arrived but was mostly introduced in the 19th century. Anyway, this lowland tree seems particularly suited to the relatively mild climate of upland Exmoor.







An Introduction to Exmoor Riding Ride 6 Malmsmead, Coast Path & Culbone 11 Miles

Although ride 6 starts and ends in Malmsmead, like ride 7, it takes quite a different sort of route. Predominantly the first half of the route winds along Exmoor’s beautiful and dramatic coastline, offering stunning views out across the Bristol Channel to Wales. For the second half of the route you head in land up and over some of Exmoor’s finest open heather moorland.

Another interesting aspect of this route is that it passes features, and indeed runs through an area, that has helped inspire some of Exmoor’s more famous celebrities, the Romantic Poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge and RD Blackmore, author of the famous novel Lorna Doone.

Points of Interest and Ride details
(Please note that the information below is not a route description. It is designed to add value to the descriptions that will be available in the Exmoor & Quantock Hills on Horseback publication in the New Year)

Malmsmead is easy to find. Follow signs for Brendon and Oare from the A39. The roads are tight but it is a scenic and enjoyable drive. A large car park is available just before you come to the bridge in Malmsmead (if you are coming from Brendon), or round to the right after the bridge (if you are coming from Oare). The car park is in front of Oaremead Farm Campsite.

There is a car park, toilets camping and caravanning site and natural history centre at Malmsmead, as well as a tea shop during the summer season.

On leaving the car park turn left and head round to the left towards the bridge, cross the bridge or ford (depending on how high/fast the river is!). Out of Malmsmead take the first road left and then left again onto the bridleway that takes you up to County Gate. At the top take a brief rest and take in the views that look across to Southern Wood and down into Doone Country.

At County Gate you will find a car park, toilet facilities and a National Park Centre (open April to October), and therefore a good alternative base to begin ride 6 from.

Dartford warblers have recently started breeding on the coastal heath land at County Gate. Formerly more associated with more lowland heath land areas they first bred on Exmoor in 1995 and there are now over 70 pairs across the National Park.

The route now crosses the A39 and winds east along the coast, travelling over open moor and heath land, through traditional working farms, and offering stunning views of the Bristol Channel and Wales.

Exmoor ’s coastline, particularly the stretch that you are riding close to, and above at this point, is regarded as one of its most special qualities – for a number of reasons:

Exmoor has the highest coastline on the British mainland. It reaches a height of 314 metres (1350ft) at Culbone Hill.

The Exmoor shoreline is also the most remote in England. Because of the height and steepness of the cliffs, there is no landward access to the six mile stretches of shoreline from Combe Martin to Heddon's Mouth and Countisbury to Glenthorne and there are few places where you could land even a small boat. It is estimated that if you were to wait for tides low enough to walk between access points it would take five years to walk the 34 mile length of shore. Even then some serious rock climbing would be involved.

Exmoor has the most extensive broadleaved coastal woods in Britain. Woods stretch along ten miles of cliff from Countisbury to Porlock. Parts are ancient sessile oak woodland and are amongst the most natural woodland in England. Elsewhere strong salt-laden winds prevent the development of coastal woods except around sheltered inlets. On Exmoor the coastline is sheltered from the prevailing south westerly winds by the high cliffs and the Foreland shelters the eastern part of the coast from most strong winds sweeping up the channel. On the gentler parts of the cliffs trees sweep right down onto the beach.

After Silcombe Farm you will pass a gate and track to your left that heads down to Culbone church, which is charmingly set in a shady wooded combe. Dedicated to St Beuno and with Saxon origins, it is reputed to be the smallest parish church in England.

Further on is Ash Farm, which is said to be the place where the Romantic Poet, Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772-1834), wrote much of his famous poem Kubla Khan. Both Coleridge and his friend William Wordsworth lived for a time in the Quantocks and took much of their inspiration from walking far and wide throughout Exmoor and the Quantock Hills.

As you head back towards the A39, you pass a World War II anti aircraft battery site. It was used to defend a listening installation, on Stent Hill, which monitored enemy activity over the Bristol Channel. As you travel towards the Culbone Inn, the platforms of Nissen huts, which provided accommodation for the troops, can be seen on the right hand side of the road.

You cross the A39 at the Culbone Inn, which provides a suitable rest stop, being about half way. On leaving the Inn you travel down towards Robber’s Bridge, a popular picnic spot on Weir Water. It is a tiny road bridge, reputed to be the site of a Doone robbery (see notes on Lorna Doone in ride 7).

As you travel along Oare Water, watch out for Dippers – a charismatic brown bird with a white bib which dives underwater in search of food. Otters also frequent this watercourse, although being active during the evening and early morning they are rarely seen.

At Oareford ride 6 leaves the road and climbs, left, up Stowey Ridge, before turning right at the top and descending to Oare. Here you will find yourself out on open moorland with great views down through the rolling valleys.

The route then crosses back over Oare Water at Oare, before crossing back again and into Malmsmead, over the bridge, round to the right and the car park.

To the west of Malmsmead is the larger settlement of Brendon, itself a beautifully picturesque place. Here you will find a pub and small shop. The village straggles along the East Lyn valley with the church nearly two miles away. The church was moved from Cheriton in the eighteenth century and is dedicated to St Brendan, the much-travelled Irish saint who is reputed to have discovered North America.

Further west the road meets the B3223. If you turn right here you will come to the beautiful Watersmeet, owned by the National Trust. Open from 19 th March to 30 th October, there is a tea room and gift shop available.

For further information on things to do in the area and places to stay please visit Lynton Tourist Information Centre, County Gate National Park Centre (Summer Only) or Barbrook Post Office (Exmoor National Park Local Information Point).

Website:www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk

















An Introduction to Exmoor Riding Ride 7 Malmsmead, Brendon Common, Doone Valley - 6 Miles

Ride 7 begins in the picturesque hamlet of Malmsmead just over the North Devon / West Somerset border and about a mile or so from the A39. Despite being the shortest ride in the Exmoor & Quantock Hills on Horseback pack, ride 7 does still provide both horse and rider with a challenging work out. It also introduces you to three of Exmoor’s most special qualities: native oak woodlands; heath and common land; and powerful rivers.

The ride is nicely designed and begins with a steep climb through woodlands up onto the open heath land that is Brendon Common. Having had time to enjoy the spectacular views you descend to the edges of Badgworthy Water where you follow the river up through Doone Valley to Malmsmead.

Points of Interest and Ride details
(Please note that the information below is not a route description. It is designed to add value to the descriptions that will be available in the Exmoor & Quantock Hills on Horseback publication in the New Year)

Malmsmead is easy to find. Follow signs for Brendon and Oare from the A39. The roads are tight but it is a scenic and enjoyable drive. A large car park is available just before you come to the bridge in Malmsmead (if you are coming from Brendon), or round to the right after the bridge (if you are coming from Oare). The car park is in front of Oaremead Farm Campsite.

Malmsmead is situated in the large parish of Countisbury and Brendon, and has a population of 209. The area stretches from the coast (including Foreland Point) to Brendon Common and the edge of Exmoor Forest in the south. As with much of Exmoor the landscape changes dramatically over such a relatively small space. From dramatic coastal headlands and steep wooded cliffs to patches of native woodlands, open moorland, heath land and fast flowing rivers and streams.

The ride begins at the road junction, just up from the bridge and by an old farm building and big black tin shed. As you look at these buildings go through the gate to the right.

This track climbs up to Southern Wood and is steep and bumpy in places. As you ride up you will notice the traditionally managed laid beech hedgerows on your right that supports a whole host of interesting wildlife. Don’t forget to look back down on Malmsmead for a great view!

The track leads up and over the hill, through Southern Wood, before going up again, and out onto open heath land. This is definitely a good place to pause, let your horse rest and take in the glorious views across rolling hills and farmland out towards the Bristol Channel.

The next two or three miles wind across Brendon Common, introducing you to some of Exmoor’s most wild and open, and totally tranquil, heath land. Amongst patches of heather and gorse are seas of grasses and bracken.

Please remember though that Brendon Common is extremely open and exposed. Even on beautiful sunny days, it can be windy or cold, particularly in Autumn, Winter, and Early Spring, so please take appropriate clothing for your ride. Regular winter visitors to the area’s open moorland and heath include golden plover and hen harrier. The Golden Plover has a distinctive gold and black summer plumage, and in winter the black is replaced by buff and white. The Hen Harrier flies with wings held in a shallow 'V', gliding low in search of food. Males are a pale grey colour, females and immatures are brown with a white rump and a long, barred tail which give them the name 'ringtail'.

Gradually you descend off of the heathland, down to the banks of Badgworthy Water, a river tributary of the East Lyn River further north. Here are you will find the slight traces of at least 12 buildings - a village that existed here in the medieval period, around 700 years ago. A few stony banks are all that is left of a scatter of houses and barns set within terraced fields on which crops were once grown. The village was abandoned in the 1400s.

The Middle Ages saw the establishment of the Royal Forest of Exmoor nearby and throughout the period sheep farming for the wool trade came to dominate the economy. The wool was spun into thread on isolated farms and collected by merchants to be woven, fulled, dyed and finished in thriving towns like Dunster (Medieval Period AD410 -1485).

At this point you can cross over Badgworthy Water and join St Hughes Ride, a permitted bridleway that avoids a slightly difficult stretch of track on the more popular definitive route. Please note though that crossing Badgowrthy Water may only be possible during Summer, when water levels are much lower than normal. If you have any doubts as to whether to cross the river or not please don’t. The definitive route is tricky in places but no way near impossible.

Did you know?

The area centred around Badgworthy Water is famed as home of the legendary Doones, a family of seventeenth-century outlaws. Legend placed the Doones in the deserted medieval settlement in Hoccombe Combe, a tributary of Badgworthy. The valley of Blackmore's famous novel Lorna Doone, however, more closely resembled Lank Combe, another tributary. One mile along a riverside walk from Malmsmead is the tiny church at Oare where Lorna Doone married Jan Ridd, the hero of the novel.

Look out for the RD Blackmore Memorial Stone close to the river on the way back to Malmsmead. Placed there by the Lorna Doone Centenary Committee in 1969, it says, “To the memory of Richard Doddridge Blackmore whose novel Lorna Doone extols to all the world the joys of Exmoor”

Between this stone and Malmsmead is an opportunity for a refreshment stop at Cloud Farm. The farm has tea shop, campsite, riding stables and small store.

There is a car park, toilets camping and caravanning site and natural history centre at Malmsmead, as well as a tea shop during the Summer season.

To the west of Malmsmead is the larger settlement of Brendon, itself a beautifully picturesque place. Here you will find a pub and small shop. The village straggles along the East Lyn valley with the church nearly two miles away. The church was moved from Cheriton in the eighteenth century and is dedicated to St Brendan, the much-travelled Irish saint who is reputed to have discovered North America.

Further west the road meets the B3223. If you turn right here you will come to the beautiful Watersmeet, owned by the National Trust. Open from 19 th March to 30 th October, there is a tea room and gift shop available.

For further information on things to do in the area and places to stay please visit Lynton Tourist Information Centre, County Gate National Park Centre (Summer Only) or Barbrook Post Office (Exmoor National Park Local Information Point).















For more information:

Exmoor National Park Authority
Park website: www.exmoor-nationalpark.gov.uk
Visit Exmoor website: www.visit-exmoor.info

www.exmoorponysociety.org.uk

Lynton Tourist Information Centre County Gate National Park Centre
Town Hall, Lynton A39, Countisbury, Near Lynton Tel: 01598 752 225 Tel: 01598 741 321 Email:[email protected]Email:[email protected]Website:www.lyntourism.co.uk



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