Who Owns Castello di Santa Cristina?
The Castle is the home of Count Antonio Mancini Caterini and has been in his family for many generations. So the Castle is more than a hotel – it’s an opportunity to experience an authentic Italian family home and a truly Italian way of life. 'Antonello' (as he is known) and his family divide their time between the Castle and Rome, where their children are at school. When they are resident at Santa Cristina, they will often join guests at mealtimes and Antonello accompanies trail rides and competes his horses at show jumping and cross country.
The Castle; views over the terrace to the main pool; the tranquil Castle gardens
The atmosphere at Santa Cristina is friendly, welcoming and informal – with a polite invitation to ask you to leave your stresses at home and tune into the charming, relaxed way of Italian life. You can get fully involved or be as independent as you like – the choice is yours. Castles & Horses
Antonello combines his passion for preserving and conserving the Castle with his passion for horses. For him, it’s about helping people to understand the Italian culture and to understand the horse - and horse riding – and a holiday at the Castle offers the perfect opportunity to do just that.
From left: Guest rooms above the restaurant; Antonello on Mucca (Photo: Santa Cristina); horses resting in a turnout paddock
At Santa Cristina, there is the opportunity to experience varied trail rides, ranging from an hour or two to full days, which can include a visit to the stunning lakes, and lunch. Or you can take advantage of the excellent instruction and well-trained schoolmasters to polish up your flatwork or jumping. The approach is Classical, with particular emphasis on the methods of French trainer, Philippe Karl, where there is no place for force or coercion in training, and horses are treated as partners. This is reflected in the happy, relaxed demeanour of the horses and ponies and nice to see in a commercial riding establishment.
Where do you Stay - what's the accommodation like?
While the Castle itself provides a central focal point to admire, with its array of historic family artefacts (more about this later), there is also plenty of time and room to enjoy your own personal space. Guests can stay in B&B rooms, or self-contained apartments in the charmingly converted outbuildings.
Some of the guest rooms, which overlook the terrace; views over the gardens below the terrace; a guest room with seat outside
We stayed in Marta, a peaceful converted barn. Our two-bedroomed apartment with en-suite bathrooms overlooked a private swimming pool and gardens and had a comfortable living/dining area, small kitchen and terrace. Most of the self-contained accommodation is located in a large, converted building overlooking the main pool, gardens and terraced dining area. The accommodation is comfortable, not luxury, but not basic – and very pleasant. Check out before you arrive if you need a double bed, as ours was a twin pushed together! Towels are provided, but bring pool towels and robes with you. The water pressure in our bathroom was good with consistent hot water. The water is OK to drink.
From the left: Marta apartment overlooking the private pool; Marta's sitting room; another apartment & typical terrace area
You’ll need a car for self-catering
The Castle is a few kilometres from the nearest village at Grotte di Castro , so, if you want independence, it’s best to hire a car. It’s a good 30 minute drive from Orvieto, where you’ll find the nearest train station linking from the airports in Rome. The team at Santa Cristina are happy to pick you up, but if you want to cater for yourself, having your own car means you can visit local villages, with their shops and restaurants, as you wish. It’s advisable to come prepared with a few self-catering accessories for your room, like coffee, tea, bottled water, etc, as these aren’t provided. But refreshments can be purchased from the restaurant or the equestrian tack room.
Orvieto
Eating at The Castle – What’s on offer?
If self catering doesn’t appeal, there’s a restaurant at the Castle, set on the terrace overlooking the main swimming pool, which is run by Italian, Franco Mechilli, son Cristiano, and their family. They are renowned chefs and hold top level championships in Pizza making. If you’re lucky, Franco might be persuaded to sing one evening and make sure you’re there if he does – he has an astoundingly good voice.
The restaurant area
Dinner: Don’t arrive at the restaurant before 8.30pm because nothing happens before then. After that, everything springs into life and you’ll be treated to a delicious five course dinner. There’s no menu and it took us a moment of adjustment to willingly relinquish ‘control’ and enjoy what was on offer. It’s well worth it. We experienced authentic Italian cuisine, combining well thought out tastes and dishes - and we tried a lot of things we probably wouldn’t otherwise have ordered. Wine flows freely throughout the evening and is included with your meal. A typical evening would include various Antipasti, followed by soup, a pasta dish, a main course and dessert and coffee. Amazingly, it’s possible to eat all of this, and the total price is about 25 Euros per person, which represents great value for money. Dishes include 'Caci' a delicious soup with potato, tomato, chick peas and pasta; Spezzatino - steak and potato in a delicate tomato sauce; Spaghetti Carbonara - and seemingly endless lovely Italian creations.
Tip: Don't miss Vicky's excellent 'Quizz', which is likely to happen on one of the nights you're there - highly amusing and great fun!
On Friday night, it's Pizza Night and this is a real treat. Cristiano happens to hold a World Championship in Pizza making and creates an array of delicious, thin and crispy pizzas - including a starter of 'Fried Pizza' and a dessert of wafer thin pizza, covered in Nutella chocolate spread and sprinkled with nuts - fabulous!
Above left: Pizza Night with Giacomo & Cristiano! Right: Breakfast in the old Stables in the Castle
Breakfast is served from 9am, and earlier during the height of summer, when rides start earlier. When you’ve settled into the relaxed life at Santa Cristina and enjoyed dinner at the restaurant, you’ll struggle to get up any earlier than this… but for those bursting with energy, there’s always an early morning swim, walk or helping out with the horses. The breakfast room is located in the Castle itself, in what was once the stables. Now, it’s a large, light airy room with high ceilings and overlooking the garden. You’ll find croissants, ham, cheese, boiled eggs, toast, fruit tart, fruit, yoghurt, cereal, coffee, tea and orange juice.
Lunch takes place between around 1 and 2pm and again, there is no menu – it just sort of arrives. First there is antipasti, which varies daily, followed by a simple pasta dish, then coffee. Wine flows freely once again and the atmosphere is relaxed and sociable. Your privacy is respected so if you’d like a table for two for meals, that’s fine. However, guests are soon sitting and eating together and the Santa Cristina team are usually around for lunch and dinner. We met visitors of all ages from the UK, Iceland, Italy, Switzerland and the USA during our visit.
Sociable, relaxed lunches, or quiet tables for two if you prefer The Team at Santa Cristina
There is a small and closely knit team of friendly and capable staff at the Castle. Everyone has a specific role, but they all ‘muck in’ and help each other out and get everything done – and they’re like one big family. There is great camaraderie and a sense of belonging, in which the guests are embraced. The team socialize with guests and often eat on the terrace with guests. This creates the very special atmosphere for which Santa Cristina is known and puts everyone at ease. Giacomo, Vicky and Simone run the horse riding and do a great job.
From left: Vicky, Pabantos, a guest from Switzerland, Giacomo, Simone, Diletta and Dawn; horses waiting for a trail ride
Horsemanship at Santa Cristina
Collectively, the team share a passion for horses and good horsemanship. Simone, trail leader and instructor has even brought her own horse (a lovely Andalusian/Arabian cross) and dog (Jack Russell) to live at the Castle. They are all committed to a training system based on the Classical methods of a French trainer called Philippe Karl – which is all about riding with ‘feel’ and developing partnership with the horses. His books are available for guests to read and were so interesting, we bought them on our return. (‘The Art of Riding – Classical Dressage to High School’ and ‘Twisted Truths of Modern Dressage – A search for a Classical Alternative’. Both are available from Amazon)
Giacomo and students in one of the two large arenas
Riders of any standard, from complete beginners to advanced, are accommodated at the Castle, so you don’t have to be a Classical expert to ride there – you just have to be prepared to listen as the team explain how the horses like to be ridden. The upside of this is that these are happy horses who are kept motivated and fresh through good horsemanship methods. Refreshingly, the horses are also turned out every day and great care is taken to work out which combinations work best for turnout. Such attention to their physical and mental wellbeing reflects in their calm demeanors.
How did we find the riding?
During our visit, I wanted to improve my jumping and the lessons, approach and horses exceeded my expectations and enabled me to deal with a few ‘blocks’ that were preventing progress. Giacomo, an instructor, is adept at selecting the right horse for the job and ensures you are both working well together as a team in flatwork before you go near a jump. I was very comfortable with the tuition and logic of the lessons and can recommend it to anyone who likes to ride with light hands and work with the horse rather than ‘forcing’ it to do what you want. The horses are calm but alert, interested, responsive and sensitive to the lightest aids, which is quite an achievement in a commercial riding establishment.
Used to Exmoor ponies and arabs and being only 5’4”, I raised my eyes when introduced to Pabantos ‘Pabo’, the 17.1hh bay warmblood assigned to get me over my jumping ‘hang-up’. But he proved to be the perfect solution to the problem. They like you to ride with light aids, contact and ‘feel’, squeezing not kicking and using your weight correctly and sitting with the horse in balance. Giacomo clearly explains what the horses are used to and it’s easy to follow and familiar to anyone used to Classical riding. I was soon jumping happily on Pabo, who I trusted completely. Giacomo spots immediately where you can improve your technique, position and approach and you find yourself improving your riding and having a great time as well.
Jumping on 'Pabo' and from left, Giacomo, Pabantos, Dawn, Diletta and Sophia
We also enjoyed lovely trail riding with Vicky on lively, fun horses. I rode a super young Appaloosa who’s learning his job, called Dorado, and look forward to hearing how he gets on. Nick rode the Count’s eventer, Isadoro, who seemed to be fit enough for a trip around Badminton, and I don’t mean the shopping village… we loved it.
Horse Riding – organize it the way you want it at Santa Cristina
One of the nicest things about staying at Santa Cristina is that you really can do what you want. That might include riding out on the trail, enjoying lunch and a swim in the magnificent lake, and riding home. Or it might mean a shorter hack in the morning and a lesson in the afternoon. Or, if you just want to ‘chill’, you can lie by the pool, enjoy lunch, relax some more and have a late afternoon lesson. There really is something for everyone. While we were there, we saw experienced riders enjoying exhilarating trail riding, and novice riders learning from scratch and building up to their very first hack out. There were also youngsters combining trail riding with daily lessons to improve their seat and jumping.
Above from left: One of the novice rider guests returning from his first ever trail ride; Vicky tacking up; Simone turning out horses
You can also choose to ride out on some days and go sightseeing, or to the nearby Spa, on others. Whatever you decide, the team at Santa Cristina are friendly, helpful and interested in making sure you have a good holiday.
What’s the Surrounding Countryside Like?
The Castle is set in a very rural area – between the three regions of Latzio, Tuscany and Umbria - which means there is masses of picturesque outriding on tracks, through woodland, fields and meadows, all set in beautiful countryside. Nestling among the scenic woodland, you’ll see fields of potatoes, sunflowers, grasses & wild flowers (including beautiful poppies), barley and a crop called ‘Farro’ which is organically grown and used in soups and salads. This is also an area that grows olives to make olive oil. Because it’s so rural, it’s also wonderfully unspoilt, with meandering meadows, hedges, trees and pretty cultivated and wild areas. We picked ripe cherries as we rode underneath the trees and listened to the birds singing – the peace and tranquility is lovely. So are the views – this is undulating countryside with some dramatic surrounding mountains and lakes which remind you that the landscape was formed by volcanic eruptions. The Castle itself sits on a 500-600m ancient plateau. To the East is the beautiful Lake Bolsena and to the North West is the dramatic Mount Amiata. The sea is to the South East and Rome is to the South West. Castle History – the Castle and the area has quite a history!
The Count’s family came to the area in the 1200’s and there are various stones and artefacts around the Castle and its grounds that came from homes and palaces they lived in before. There are two family crests – Monaldeschi (from the Middle Ages) and Farnese (from the Renaissance period). The Monaldeschi built local castles in the area to control it and they also build the town of Orvieto. This was followed by a period of warfare with the Vatican and Siena and much fighting. During the Renaissance, the family of Farnese took over the area.
The Farnese family had Pope Paulus III on the throne, who gave his natural son, Pierluigi Farnese (a Duke) towns and properties in the area. Farnese summoned architects to build a beautiful town that reflected his Capital - and called it ‘Castro’, which means ‘of the Dukedom’. So this is why many of the villages around Castello di Santa Cristina have ‘Castro’ in their name. The nearest village is called Grotte di Castro, which means ‘Caves of Castro’ or, ‘Caves of the Dukedom’. Later, when another Pope took over, he sent an army to destroy the town of Castro and it’s now rubble. Even the churches were destroyed, so only the surrounding villages remain.
Not surprisingly, the family crest is Adversus in Hostem ‘Against the Enemy’. When you enter the Castle you will also find ‘Sua Cuique Domus est Tutissimum RefuGium’’ which means ‘Your home is your best shelter’ over the fireplace. And in the Castle entrance to the gallery – ' Intra Laetior Hinc Recedes’ ’ which means ‘Come in with a happy mood or go away’.
Castello di Santa Cristina was originally built at the end of the 1700’s and in the middle of the 1800’s it became the home of a Cardinal – P C Caterini, who was the current Count’s relative – to use for his holidays and for hunting. The Cardinal built farmhouses around the Castle and developed the estate which today consists of about 100 hectares (250 acres).
Count Antonio Mancini Caterini has retained his mother’s name to keep the titles. The family symbol is the Dog and you will always find plenty of friendly relaxed dogs around the Castle grounds, quite often lying underneath the tables on the terrace or ‘almost literally’ under the horses feet as they’re being tacked up. Three or four dogs are likely to accompany you on rides and they really are the loveliest creatures, enjoying what must be close to a perfect life for a dog – creature comforts and freedom!
Wendy snoozing on the terrace...
Inside the Castle
Castello di Santa Cristina holds some fascinating historic treasures and is definitely worth a look. The Castle is a National Monument and a Listed Building and its interior artefacts largely date back to the Cardinal’s era (mid 1800’s). You’re treated to an exquisite 1700’s tiled floor in the Gallery, with vibrant colours that compete with the outstanding stained glass window. The Cardinal’s bedroom and the Maps room contain the original furniture and furnishings. There are Flemish paintings, portraits and stunning Venetian Cabinets. The Dining room is named ‘The Bird Room’ and contains beautiful bird paintings on the dressers, fittings and walls. There is a mouthwatering set of blue Wedgewood china from the 1700’s and accompanying Delft pieces.
Weddings at the Castle
The Castle provides the perfect setting for a wedding and the Caterini family are happy to arrange everything. The bride and groom get to spend their wedding night in the amazing Cardinal’s room! We arrived just after a wedding had taken place and some of the guests were still there a week later , enjoying the ambience!
Summary
As long as you are relaxed about ‘time schedules’ and can accommodate ‘Italian Time’, which means that, broadly speaking, things will definitely happen – but clocks are, 'for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of idiots’… We were very happy with this as, after a delightful lunch, and dreaming of a couple of hours by the pool – we didn’t mind at all when the riding lesson was moved from 4pm to 4.30pm and dinner started at 8.30pm or thereabouts. It all helps to create time out from our busy lives, fraught with schedules, deadlines and busy workloads. A spell at Santa Cristina will put you back in touch with yourselves, with nature and with horses – all washed down with lovely food and company. What more could you want? Booking directly or through a specialist Tour Operator
You can book a holiday directly with Castello di Santa Cristina. However, if you are planning to visit more than one establishment, or combine a riding holiday with a visit to the cities, or other countries, you may find it easier to book through one of the specialist tour operators like Equestrian Escapes (www.equestrian-escapes.com ) or Hidden Trails (www.hiddentrails.com/italy.htm ). One guest at Santa Cristina from the USA was visiting the Castle as part of a five week tour of multiple European riding establishments and she had the most amazing tailormade schedule which definitely needed the expert help and guidance of a good tour operator to put together!
Castello di Santa Cristina
For bookings & enquiries:
Tel & Fax 00 39 0763 78011 and Mobile 00 39 339 8605166
Contact: Antonio Mancini Caterini
email: [email protected]
www.santacristinacastle.com
Castello di S.Cristina, Loc. S.Cristina, 01025 Grotte di Castro (VT), Southern Tuscany, Italia
CLICK HERE for the Castello di Santa Cristina web page on Equinetourism.co.uk
Feature and photography copyright (except where specified) Equinetourism.co.uk and Dawn Westcott 2011. All rights reserved.
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