Our equestrian tradition is best preserved on the Great Plain, or Puszta, a vast flat land whose spirit mirrors that of the old American West. The Puszta is unique in Europe, with its whitewashed farmhouse walls, fields of bright red paprika, sweep wells, thatched csárdas (roadside inns), galloping horses and stud farms. And while the Great Plain is easily accessible, it is not spoiled by busy roads or railways. The land is refreshingly unmarred by the heavy hand of civilization, has a unique flora and fauna - and a flat terrain that makes it excellent riding country.

It's out on the Puszta that you'll find authentic Hungarian cowboys (csikós), known across Europe for their prowess on horseback. Many of them are masters of the famous "Puszta Five , a feat of equestrian skill that involves three steeds in front and two in back, on which the csikós stands, steering with the reins (don't try this at home: it's a Hungarian specialty!). You can see demonstrations at numerous riding centers and horse farms.

Riding for All Levels
Hungary's largest riding center is the Epona Riding Village in the Hortobágy National Park, a part of the Puszta famous for its boundless horizons, horse studs and cattle herds. There are even herds of buffalo and twisted horn Racka sheep roaming the unspoiled grasslands.

The riding center at Bugac, in the heart of the Puszta 80 miles southeast of Budapest, has regular equestrian competitions and carriage driving contests. At the Táltos Riding Pension, with its family-friendly apartment style bungalows, intermediate and experienced riders can explore the nearby forests on Hungarian half-breed horses, accompanied by tour leaders. The Jakabszállás farm pension, with its own stables and both Arabian and Hungarian half-breed horses, is near the

Kiskunság National Park, a UNESCO-designated bioreserve, and a beautiful wild bird sanctuary. In the park itself is the Hotel Apaj Manor House, where guests can enjoy riding, carriage driving and Puszta cultural shows. The nearby Golden Horse Leisure Park specializes in luxury services in an unspoiled riding environment.

For a riding tour you'll never forget, head to Ópusztaszer, where guests stay in traditional yurts as did the Magyars of yore, riding at leisure and learning firsthand about the ancient arts of Hungarian warfare. Riding tours can also explore the verdant area along the River Tisza or the region of Tokaj, famous for its wines. The world famous Lippizzaner stallions call nearby Eger home, and indeed many originated in this Baroque city at the foot of the Bükk Hills. There is a Lippizzaner Riding Farm only a few miles from Eger Castle in Szilvásvárad.

In western Hungary, around the beautiful Lake Balaton, there are several riding centers, particularly on the hilly uplands of its northern shore. The scenic Bakony Hills offers an excellent riding trail, starting out in Pápa. The forested countryside of Southern Transdanubia also offers many equestrian holiday possibilities. Orfû and Mecseknádasd, in the Mecsek Hills near Pécs, are well-known riding centers.

Photography by permission of the Hungarian National Tourism Office