“Where’s the nearest pub?” piped up one member of the group, as we approached the first sign of civilization for miles - a remote estancia and our base for the following two nights. Of course there wasn’t one, but you don’t need pubs on this riding holiday. The sparsely populated, lush green interior is what makes Uruguay a rider’s paradise!

It has enormous pastures to canter over, miles of sandy beaches without a sunlounger or overstuffed bikini in sight, and not a whiff of petrol fumes. After that, who has energy for a pub anyway? It was in mid-March that I, and seven other riders, converged in South America to experience this equine utopia.

I knew little about Uruguay beforehand, other than the random trivia that it was the first country to win football’s World Cup - and I had to study an atlas before my eight day adventure (it’s on the east coast, wedged between Brazil and Argentina, for those equally in the dark). Among our group of eight were a hurley maker (the wooden stick used in the Irish game of hurling) from Tipperary and an orthopaedic surgeon from Limerick who had been riding only a year, but had already spent the season hunting with his legendary local pack. From the USA we had a 69-year-old bionic lady who ran her first marathon at the age of 65, and a Connecticut businessman, plus three high-flyers from London.

The ride began on the Brazilian border, in the beautiful province of Rocha, a four-hour drive from Montevideo, along one of only ten paved roads in the country. Sally and two gauchos led the way - Martine, who played the “mean and moody” part, and the cheeky-faced Cesar. Both rode what seems to be the regulation gaucho accessory - a fiery chestnut. Each day we rode for up to eight hours, covering nearly 30 miles. Having ridden sedately for an hour at a time around a London park in preparation, it was a shock to the system. Buy, by day three, and after some medicinal gin and
tonics, I had adjusted - with the help of huge sheepskins covering the saddles.

The sturdy native breed of South America is the Criollo. All our horses had fantastic temperaments, sure-footed yet forward-going and responsive enough to turn on a peso. In Uruguay, the horse is still considered primarily a mode of transport, and Sally is introducing British bits and vet treatment and our horses were well cared for. She had done her homework and we were perfectly matched with our respective steeds. Apparently, the first canter, with Sally nervously looking on, is the litmus test. Her sense of relief when nobody fell off or revealed they hadn’t learnt to canter yet (which has happened) was visible.

I fell in love with Laura, my little roan mare. She was a pleasure to ride and didn’t mind my enormous hugs and pats too much (South Americans don’t do petting).The tack is minimalist - some bridles consisted of little more than a string headpiece, cheekpieces and bit. Oh, and the girths have no buckles and are tied implausibly far back. But it all seems to work. I’d never ridden Western before, but as soon as you get the hang of neck-reining, you’re away. To master the
lope - the most common pace at which the Uruguayans ride - you slouch your back and sit with your shoulders behind your hips. Unfortunately, this goes against everything my dressage instructors have drilled into me over the years and after a couple of days bouncing around with my poker-striaght back, I reverted to rising trot.

We quickly settled into a daily routine: three - or four - hours riding; picnic or BBQ lunch; siesta; another couple of hours in the saddle in the cool of the late afternoon, and finally a swim, drinks and dinner before bed. We felt very spoilt by having our horses tacked up and waiting for us every morning, getting banquet-proportions of food delivered to picturesque picnic spots and riding to the door of the next night’s accommodation.

Uruguay is a virtually unexplored destination for traditional tourism. This small and peaceful country offers nature lovers an amazing variety of ecosystems, mainly concentrated in the "Bañados del Este" Biosphere Reserve (UNESCO).

It is a unique place where, within short distances you can find: Wetlands, hills, native forest, palm groves, sandy and rocky beaches, rivers, coastal lagoons and savannahs. These are all filled with an enormous diversity of birds - more than 400 species- and other wildlife, like the endangered capybara, pampas deer, sea turtle and franca whale among others, which coexist in harmony with the cattle, sheep and horses that populate the vast pampas.

Situated on the undefined frontier between the Spanish and Portuguese empires, Uruaguay has always been a region of passing influences which is reflected in the hospitable character of its people. First conquerors and then the immigrants, who arrived from Europe in large waves during the first half of the last century, have enriched the native traditions, forging a very particular cultural identity that is different from the majority of Latin American countries. Indigenous remains, fortresses of the Colonial period and traces of the gaucho's life have combined with a rich urban architectural heritage.

Due to the diversity of natural landscapes and to the centennial tradition related to the Criollo horse, Uruguay is one of the most fascinating places to ride.

Climate: The weather in Uruguay is variable, but you can expect warm spring and autumn temperatures, although there may be cool days (especially early in the morning or at night) and perhaps some rainy days too. The average temperature at this time of year is 65 F, average lows are 54 F, and average highs are 74 F.

All information is sourced with kind permission from www.hiddentrails.com

Hidden Trails
Explore foreign places away from the tourist rush and off the beaten path - on Hidden Trails. They are about galloping on endless beaches, forging rivers, cantering through forests, trotting along age-old trails, gazing at beautiful vistas, and encountering foreign cultures. Hidden Trails is owned and operated by nature enthusiasts who love horses and adventure activities. They have been involved with riding vacations for the last 20 years and have collected some of the best horseback riding destinations all over the world, with some hidden places they would like to share with you.

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