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Editorial Section - Area Information, The Levels and Moors, Somerset
Contact details
Levels and Moors Project Officers. Telephone: 01458 210790
The Levels and Moors Office, Moorlinch Vineyards, Moorlinch, Bridgwater, Somerset TA7 9DD
www.somersetlevels.org.uk
SOMERSET LEVELS & MOORS

This beautiful and picturesque area lies in the very heart of Somerset. It has international status as one of the most important 'wetland' areas of its type in the world and covers 250 square miles. Essentially, The Levels and Moors 'wetland' is a huge, reclaimed marsh where pastures are divided by a network of ditches and drainage channels known as rhynes, rather than hedges and fences.
The Landscape

The Levels and Moors form a unique flat, open landscape and the treeless pastureland is dominated by distant views of the surrounding hills.

Most of the area is no higher than 25ft above sea level, though the Levels (coastal marine clays) are higher than the inland Moors which have peat as its central feature.

These areas are protected from coastal flooding by the clay ridge at the coast and by the control of water by pumping.

To the north of the Polden Hills this wetland is naturally supplied by the rivers, Axe, Sheppey and Brue; while in the south, the main rivers are the Cary, Yeo, Tone and Parrett. The latter is tidal up to Oath Lock near Langport.

THE SOMERSET LEVELS AND MOORS PARTNERSHIP
The Levels and Moors Partnership was formed in 1995 in response to finding a new way of working with Local Authorities and Government Agencies whose work affects the area. The aims are to promote good management of the Levels and Moors and the enjoyment and celebration of this unique working landscape by local communities and visitors.
Outdoor Activities

The relative flatness of the Levels and Moors make the area ideal for outdoor recreation. For cycling enthusiasts, there are circular routes of between 22 and 28 miles in length and feature The Withy Way, the Isle Valley, the Avalon Marshes and the Peat Moor Routes
For more details, contact the Somerset Visitor Centre (01934 750833).

There are also four circular rides around Sedgemoor and the West Country Way links to Route 3 of the National Cycle Network.

Ramblers and walkers can enjoy the following major routes in the Levels and Moors:
1) MacMillan Way West (www.macmillanway.org)
2) River Parrett Trail (www.riverparrett-trail.org.uk)
3) Celtic Way

Food & Drink


The area is well known for its prize-winning ciders, such as those from Burrow Hill Cider Farm. This is home to The Somerset Distillery and Somerset Royal Cider Brandy. Smoked salmon, trout and eel are also famous throughout the Levels and Moors.
LEVELS & MOORS HISTORY

At the start...
After the last glaciation 10,000 years ago, the sea level rose and all of the Levels and Moors were under water. At around, 4,500BC peat deposits began to form in salt marsh, fen and raised bog environments and the Levels and Moors began to emerge.

To cross these wetlands and reach the islands of rock and sand in the valleys, prehistoric people built wooden trackways - these survive to the present day due to waterlogging of the peat areas. The oldest was the Sweet Track built in 3806 BC

Reconstructions of prehistoric roundhouses and trackways can be found at the Peat Moors Centre (01458 860697).

Iron Age ...
The remains of Iron Age villages have been found in the wetlands near Meare and Glastonbury. The Meare settlements were seasonal trading centres but the one near Glastonbury was permanently occupied, although it could only be reached by dugout canoe.

Roman Times ..
In Roman times, the first sea and river defences were built and traces of Roman fields still exist in the Axe valley. A salt-mining industry was based around Woolavington, Burtle and Burnham. At the end of the Roman period, the defences failed and large scale flooding took place.
The Saxons chose the islands in the moors as locations for Monastic centres. These included Athelney where King Alfred also built a fort in the 9th century - this led to his successful campaign to drive out the Danish Vikings.

Sumersaeta...
The rich summer grazing land on the Levels and Moors may have given rise to the name 'Sumersaeta' - land of the summer people - from where Somerset gets its name.

Middle Ages ...
In the Medieval period, the ecclesiastical estates of Glastonbury, Wells and Muchelney owned large parts of the Moors which they began to enclose and protect from flooding. This included building floodbanks, such as Burrow Wall that now runs beside the A361 from Othery to Burrowbridge. The courses of the rivers were also straightened for better drainage and as sources of power for the mills.

The wetlands remained important for wildfowling and fishing and other products of the area were timber, peat and reeds.

Land reclamation ...
Between 1400 and 1770, some land reclamation took place but, following the dissolution of the monastries, most land was not church owned. There was considerable opposition to large scale drainage work which would result in the loss of 'commoners' rights, such as cutting peat for fuel and grazing.

In 1685, the last battle fought on English soil occurred at Westonzoyland where supporters of the Duke of Monmouth were defeated by King James II's army.

From 1770 to 1840, the main period of enclosure took place, with many rhynes or ditches cut, draining and dividing the land into rectangular units - this led to much of the pattern of roads and farms we see today. Tidal sluices and new or straightened river channels were created, including King's Sedgemoor Drain and South Drain. Commoners agreed to this reclamation in return for small plots of their own.

20th Century development...
In the 20th century the new Drainage Boards were set up and steam gave way to diesel for the pumping of water to prevent flooding. The Huntspill River (created in 1940) led to more efficient drainage, which in turn allowed for better field drainage. During the second half of the 20th century the demand for horticultural peat from the Brue Valley soared and mechanical excavation took over from hand digging. Strict controls now limit this Industry. 
THE WILLOW INDUSTRY - Did you know....?
Willow has played an important role in the Levels and Moors and even in prehistoric societies it was used in the construction of trackways and baskets.

Iron Age people made hut walls with them and the Romans prized willows as highly as corn.

In the 13th century, there is Somerset's first recorded basket maker.

The Queen's Guards bearskins have a willow framework and during the two world wars willows were woven into pigeon baskets and airborne panniers for dropping supplies.

Somerset willows have even travelled to the Desert and Polar regions in the form of balloon baskets.

The growing of willows still has a great role in the Levels and Moors and traditional basketmakers make many different kinds of baskets for general sale.

Sculptors even create garden objects and modern art out of willows and it is used to reinforce riverbanks, thatch houses and turned into artist's charcoal.

For more details, visit www.celebratingsomerset.com/willow
WILDLIFE

The Levels and Moors are rich in wildlife. It is a Special Protection Area (and Ramsar Site) which makes it internationally important for migrating birds, such as Lapwing and for breeding waders. All rely on the wet ground to allow them to probe for insects and worms.

This wetland is one of the few places in England where otters survive and many other rarities exist, including unusual dragonflies, damselflies, water beetles, crickets and grasshoppers.

Both the land and water are special with 22 butterfly species depending on the flower meadows, while the main ditches are a last link with the country's original marshland.

Breeding Birds
Migratory birds, such as Yellow Wagtail and Sedge Warbler nest in the wetland through the summer, as do waders like curlews. These and the less common Redshank and Snipe all depend on wet grassland.

Herons nest in the woodland around West Sedgemoor and are often seen feeding on fish, eels and frogs in the ditches and rhynes.

Wintering Birds
It is vital in winter that the Levels and Moors have at least some surface splash flooding, as overwintering birds, such as Teal, Pintail and Plovers depend on these flooded areas.

Birds of prey also need the high water table. These include Merlin and Peregrine Falcons in winter and Marsh Harriers in summer.

Meadow Flowers
Many of the plants growing in the wetter, unploughed meadows - Ragged Robin, Marsh Marigold and Meadowsweet - are descendants of those marsh flowers found preserved in the peat. Far fewer are found in fertilised pastureland.

Rhynes
These ditches are man-made but have been colonised by plants that inhabited the old wetland pools - notably floating aquatics and rushes. The ditches are cleaned on a strict rotation so plant colonies are never destroyed and they have time to re-establish themselves.

PLACES OF SPECIAL INTEREST
Willows & Wetlands Visitor Centre
P.H. Coate & Son, Meare, Green Court, Stoke St Gregory, Taunton
Tel: 01823 490249
This takes its name from the willows (withies), a naturally sustainable crop grown for use in the basket-making industry. Visitors can see the processes involved in the willow industry and purchase items.
The Peat Moors Centre
Shapwick Road, Westhay, near Glastonbury
Tel: 01458 860697
Owned and run by Somerset Council, this visitor centre specialises in wetland geology, history and archaeology.
Langport & River Parrett Visitor Centre
Westover, Langport
Tel: 01458 250350
This is a gateway to the South Somerset Moors one of lowland Britain's most unchanged landscapes.
The Tribunal: Glastonbury Lake Village Museum
The Tribunal, 9 High Street, Glastonbury
Tel: 01458 832954
A Medieval merchant's house in the town with displays from the nationally important Iron Age site of Glastonbury Lake Village.
Willow Giant Situated on the M5 near Bridgwater is Serena de la Hey's mythical willow figure. This enormous willow sculpture is one of Somerset's most striking features.
TOWNS TO VISIT
Langport Once an important river port this town is bustling with antique shops and craft galleries. There is the 'hanging chapel' gatehouse in the old town wall to see and a cycle hire centre to help you explore the local trails.
Muchelney The town is famous for the remains of the Benedictine Abbey (English Heritage). The thatched priest's house (National Trust) with its large Gothic windows is worth a visit too.
Somerton On the edge of the Levels and Moors, this is the former Royal Capital of Wessex. It is known for its 17th century architecture around the town square.
Tourist Information Centres
The following Tourist Information Centres will be happy to offer information, help and advice to all visitors to Somerset.
Sedgemoor Services
01934 750833
Bridgwater 01278 427652
Burnham-on-Sea 01278 787852
Cheddar 01934 744071
Glastonbury 01458 832949
Sparkford 01935 841302
Taunton 01823 336344
Wells 01749 672552
Yeovil 01935 471279

USEFUL WEBSITES TO VISIT:
www.somersetlevels.org.uk

www.celebratingsomerset.com/willow

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