Horses that are in prolonged work during the summer months may also need clipping, as is the case with polo ponies who are required to work at speed in short sharp bursts, and other animals that are in competition work.
TIP - Start on a large flattish area & just run the clippers for a while, especially if clipping a young/difficult horse.

Horses can also be clipped or trimmed with small trimmers for show purposes where presentation is paramount. There is such a good selection of trimmers to choose from now, and with the additional choice of battery operated, they can be put in a pocket and taken to shows for last minute tidying; clipping is no longer confined to the winter months.

What happens if I leave my horse with a full winter coat and continue working him?

A horse with a full winter coat will sweat if worked. This mechanism cools the horse, but if it doesn’t do so sufficiently, the body temperature will rise and the horse may even collapse. When the horse stops work, it will cease sweating, but will be wet. This moisture will gradually evaporate and the horse dries off. In order for water to evaporate, it needs energy in the form of warmth, which it takes from the horse. This robs the horse of condition, and can cause chilling, even to the point of hypothermia.

The chilled horse will shiver in an effort to maintain its body temperature, which in itself further depletes energy and body condition. So if the horse is need to work on a regular basis during the winter months, it is in the horse’s best interest to keep him clipped to some degree depending on the amount of work that is required from him.

Does the clipped horse need extra protection from the elements?

TIP - Never kneel - always squat down & to one side. Clip hair upwards for close clip - or downwards to merge in.

Obviously, the clipped horse will be denied his natural protection from winter weather, and will need to be provided with additional protection in the form of both stable and waterproof outdoor rugs, ideally with suitable shelter facilities in his paddock. During the summer months, precautions need to be taken to protect against intense sun and flies. Again, through adequate shelter. There are also a number of lightweight summer turnout rugs on the market, which will provide protection and keep the skin and hair in good condition and prevent bleaching.
It is also worth remembering that clipped horses suffer more from saddle sores and rug rubs as well as grazes, so extra attention is needed in these areas.

When is a good time to clip?
The winter coat starts to form (in the UK) during the second half of August. In September the sleek summer look is going and in October the winter coat is apparent. It continues to grow until the year’s end. Generally, the first clip is done in early October, second in November and third and final clip late December or early January. Obviously each horse is different and re-growth should be clipped accordingly. Clipping much later than January is not usually necessary, and some say, can interfere with the growing of the new coat, but again, if you have an exceptionally hairy animal than he will benefit from a later clip. We clip our cobs all though the year with no detriment to coat condition, and if the horse is well rugged this will help the new coat come through and prevent the long cat hairs from growing, a sign of a cold horse.

As the winter progresses you may find you do less riding due to the long nights, shorter days and poor weather. The second clip may therefore be less extensive than the first. We always clip everything off including the hair on legs on the first clip, then leave the hair on legs and saddle patch, especially for the hunters, on the second clip. Thereafter, giving protection, but without the thick unmanageable hair growth you would get if left from the first clip.

When and what should I not clip?
Never clip a horse just for the sake of it, if it is a youngster, or an older horse that is unlikely to be worked it is best to leave them with their natural winter coat.

The same rule applies to clipping as feeding – clip according to the amount of work the horse is doing. Generally speaking horses that are not in work do not need clipping.

The appalling practice of clipping foals for the show ring is an unnecessary abuse, which appears to be on the increase. Foals should be kept out as much as possible on the best grass available. They are born with a dense coat to give them added protection from the cool nights, hot sun and flies, and the inevitable knocks, which would otherwise injure their tender skin.

Some horses are genuinely terrified of being clipped, either from a bad introduction to clipping, having been hurt by the clippers or even having received an electric shock. If, in the case of a young horse being frightened, although never having a bad experience, it is worth persevering. There are a number of ways of making the experience bearable and in time gaining the confidence needed. This will be dealt with later on. For the horse that is too terrified and proves dangerous to himself and handler it is better not to clip on grounds of safety. Some horses will settle under heavy sedation, but this will need to be discussed with your veterinary surgeon, as he will be required to be present.

What sort of clippers should I buy?

This will depend on a number of things:

How many horses you will clip on a regular basis, and how often.
Who will be using them? It is worth bearing in mind that smaller people will find a slimmer clipper easier to manage.
Do you have access to mains electricity? If not, a battery operated clipper is the answer.
Do you have young or nervous horses to clip? If this is the case opt for a cable-free, Machine.

The range of clippers available is extensive, but basically breaks down into four divisions. Small trimmers, large trimmers, full size machines and re-chargeables.

1. Small Trimmers
Mains or cordless for trimming small areas, eg. face, ears, fine leg hair or any awkward places. A good introduction to clipping for young or nervous horses.

2. Large Trimmers
These midway machines, have been designed for light use on fine coated ponies and horses where part clips and trimming are needed.

TIP - It is useful to use a trimmer for all the difficult places. These shown are re-chargeable - great for putting in your pocket & taking to shows.

3. Full Size Machines
There are a good range of both mains, 12 volt and rechargeable, to cater for all requirements.

TIP - Trimming around the cornet band makes a nice finish when clipping legs.

4. Re-chargeables
It is worth remembering, that if you a replacing a set of existing clippers, providing you have been happy with the make, replace with the same make, as your existing blades will fit on to your new machine. If you change systems, you will have to change blades too.

What blades should I use?
The most commonly used blades are the medium cut, although coarse blades are useful on very hairy legs and are useful for the first clip of the season, especially if the hair growth is coarse and long. Fine blades are often used on thoroughbreds or fine coated animals or for when a very close clip is needed. Care should be taken with the fitting of blades onto the machine, if the blades are put on the wrong way round they will blunt immediately.

So, how do I fit the blades correctly?
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and if possible, ask your supplier for a demonstration when making your choice of machine. It is imperative that the correct tension is used. Each make of machine is different, so if there are no instructions available it is advisable to ask the advice of a clipper specialist before operating. Once the blades are correctly fitted, make sure the blades are oiled before use with clipper oil (other types of oil are generally too heavy for this type of machine) and continue oiling every 5-10 minutes during operation. Oil liberally between the teeth, the blades at the back and the guide blocks. Oil all the other little holes and wipe off any excess from the bottom blade. Trimmers, normally just require oiling across the blades. Brush off any excess hair before re-oiling, when in use, an old toothbrush is ideal. NEVER dip blades in petrol, paraffin, diesel or any other liquid to clean, it is extremely dangerous and strips the blades of their lubrication. This will also cause the blades to blunt quickly.

Be careful when clipping heads - some horses are very wary. TIP - make sure your blades are not hot when you get round to clipping the head. Either keep a spare set or use a trimmer.

What happens if my machine is incorrectly tensioned?
If the machine is incorrectly tensioned and has been screwed down too tightly, you will get heat to the blades, cause strain and ultimately damage the motor or strip the gears. You will find the blades will not cut at all.

If the blades are fitted to loosely you will get hair between the blades, which will separate the top and bottom blade even more, again this will mean the blades will not cut.

What should I do with my machine at the end of the clipping season?
However good the machine, it will only remain efficient if properly cared for. Special care must be taken with storage of electrical clippers, as they have a habit of being invisibly damaged in damp conditions. Unless your tackroom is centrally heated, then the best place for storage is in a warm dry house.

At the end of the clipping season it is advisable to return the clippers to a clipper specialist who will clean and service them, so they can then be put away in good working order, knowing that they will work when needed in the Autumn.

Care of the blades is as important. After use, remove from the machine carefully, the teeth are actually very fragile. Brush off any excess hair and wipe clean. If the blades are to be sent away for sharpening, wrap them up individually with protective packaging, eg. bubble wrap, kitchen roll, newspaper which will stop them rattling against each other and then put into a padded envelope, small box or tin. This will give them protection in transit. If the blades are to be stored with clippers for any length of time, again remove from the clipper and brush off and then wrap in an oily rag.
For general clipper care throughout the season, always check them over at the end of each day’s use. Give them an all over clean, brush off any excess hair, remove blades and check the teeth are OK. If any of the teeth have been broken, it is better to discard as you will be left with lines on your clip. We re-use bottom broken blades, they are very good for thinning/pulling manes. Just use them the same way you would a mane comb to pull a mane, they will actually cut rather than pull out by the root, but the effect is the same and the horse will feel no discomfort.

Always keep a spare set of blades, just in case your blades go blunt half way through a clip. Check the cable is not damaged, and clean air filters if fitted. Unscrew and brush both sides to remove any clogged hair. Look through to see that the gauze in the filters is clear. If necessary wash in detergent. Dry and replace. Send any blades off for sharpening as needed. If care is taken, a good set of clippers will give you many years of use.

I haven’t clipped before, but have bought a machine to clip my horse with, where do I start?

If you have no experience of clipping, it would be advisable to ask someone who is experienced to show you how to clip. Your horse will appreciate it and you won’t end up in a panic if things go wrong. Ask them to use your machine on your horse and watch. When you feel confident, and hopefully your horse is relaxed, take the clippers and start in an accessible and large part of the body, we normally suggested the shoulder area. It can be a rather daunting experience for the first timer, but, like all things, practice makes perfect, and no amount of reading from a book will teach you, it has to be hands on! Some people actually enjoy clipping and find it very therapeutic watching all the hair falling away with each stroke of the clipper.

Clipping can be dangerous for both handler and horse, especially if an electric clipper is being used. When you are dealing with electricity around animals, extra care must be taken. If your horse is reacting badly to the noise or feel of the clippers it is best to turn off and re-assess. If your horse is a quiet amenable animal and is prepared to stand still, you will quickly get the hang of clipping and will probably be able to manage on your own after a few sessions. In most cases, it is advisable to have someone prepared to stand and hold the horse for you, lift a leg when required and generally be around to help.

So, is there anything else I need to know before I get started?

A little preparation beforehand will ensure the job gets done quickly and efficiently. You should make sure your horse is as clean as possible, if you try to clip a dirty horse your blades will go blunt within minutes. Check the clippers over as discussed before and make sure you have a spare set of blades to hand, which are exactly the same as you are using. If you have to change blades over mid clip you don’t want any obvious marks.

It is also advisable to clip on a mild day, it is obviously kinder than on a cold day, unless you are fortunate to have indoor heated stabling, when of course, you can clip anytime!

Never be rushed, allow twice as long as you anticipate, just in case you hit a technical or equine hitch, and make sure your helper is prepared to be around for several hours!

It goes without saying, don’t try to clip when it is raining, or let your lead dangle in puddles, it has been know and luckily both horse and owner lived to tell the tale.

It is preferable to clip indoors in a well lit stable with a non-slip floor, but outside is acceptable if it is fairly sheltered and has a solid floor. There is nothing worse than trying to clip outside with a gale blowing and hair flying everywhere.

Ensure that the clipping area is free from obstacles such as haynets, water buckets, wheelbarrows etc.

Avoid using extension leads if possible, but if unavoidable remember to unwind all the cable from the reel. Excess cable should be kept well away from the clipping area. All leads should be kept off the floor and sockets should be positioned high on the wall for safety. It is also essential to have a circuit breaker fitted.

How do I go about clipping a difficult or young horse?

This really depends on whether the horse has been clipped before and whether it is showing signs of nervousness or aggression.

If it is a case of getting the horse’s confidence, then time spent now introducing the clippers to the horse will pay off in the long run. If clippers or trimmers are introduced as a part of the grooming routine, the horse will soon relax as he gets used to the noise.

In the case of an extremely sensitive or apprehensive horse, we tend to use trimmers first, and then move on to the larger clippers. In the event of a horse not coping with large clippers, we have had a lot of success with an American re-chargeable clipper, called the Laube Lazor. It is capable of doing full clips and even hogging manes and has the benefit of two speeds. On the slow speed the sound is very dull and quiet and can be completely camouflaged by the sound of a radio. On full speed it is still quiet and there is little vibration. The blade is interchangeable and can be used with a narrower blade as a trimmer.

As with all young horses, if the education has been given patiently and correctly at the beginning of a new experience, there should be no reason for clipping to become an issue. It is obviously more difficult, when an older horse is bought and comes with a clipping problem. We apply the same methods as if the horse is a youngster, but even more patience is needed. Sometimes, a horse is never able to overcome the fear that has been associated with clipping, and in these circumstances, if clipping is absolutely necessary, we advise contacting your veterinary surgeon to discuss sedation. If the horse is well rugged in the early autumn, this will help suppress the coat growth, so that clipping can be kept to a minimum.

Are there are other tips that would help me?
It is best to clip when you and the horse are calm.
Avoid feed and turnout times.
The horse should be exercised and be in a clean and dry condition.
Have suitable rugs to hand.
Mark the edges of the clip with a piece of damp saddle soap, cattle marker or tailor’s chalk.
Put a tail bandage on and plait up the lower section of tail doubling up and fixing with an elastic band. This will keep all the tail hair away from the legs.
Let the machine run for a while to allow the horse to get used to the noise.
Check tension is correct, and make sure switches and circuit breaker are working.
Be firm and confident.
Depending on the clip start on the shoulder, neck or gullet. If the horse is nervy, hold the machine against him (without clipping) until he settles.
Clip with firm, even pressure, against the lie of the coat, keep the tips of the blades against the skin.
Go steadily and overlap each run by 50% for a neat, even finish.
Get you helper to hold forelegs forward in order to stretch the skin in the girth area.
Don’t clip folds or wrinkles, you will cut the horse.
Oil the blades liberally and regularly (every 5-10mins) throughout clipping.

When clipping behind elbows or around the girth region - it is useful to have an extra pair of hands to pull the leg forward, ensuring the skin is flat. This is the area where it is very easy to 'nick the skin'.

TIP - Always oil blades regularly with clipper oil (every 5mins).

What type of clip should I do on my horse?
This depends on how much work the horse will be doing during the winter months. For the owner who will only be requiring the horse to hack out at weekends and occasional work during the week, then a part clip would be beneficial. This will leave him with 50% or more of his natural coat for protection but allow the major sweating areas around the neck, gullet and shoulder areas to be free of thick hair. The animal will be able to happily carry out the work required without becoming too hot and sweaty and will ensure that he can dry off quickly without losing condition. There are various part clips that can be used or adapted. For example, the trace or trace high clip where hair below the trace line is removed and also from the lower neck and jaw. The Irish clip is where the hair in front of a diagonal line from poll to stifle is removed. The bib clip is a popular choice for horses and ponies that still have to live out all winter, as it removes hair from and gullet and chest only which is where most sweating occurs.

Generally speaking if no more than 50% of the coat has been removed the animal will still be able to live out quite happily throughout out the winter, although adequate shelter will be needed and provision of a good waterproof rug.

For the owner who is expecting to work their horse daily and compete or hunt on a regular basis throughout the winter months a more complete clip will be necessary. The three main types of clip to consider are the Hunter clip, full clip and blanket clip. The full clip as its name suggests is where all the coat is removed, leaving no natural protection. The Hunter clip is where a saddle patch and all the hair on the legs are left. This gives protection for the back from saddle rubs and allows the legs their natural protection. The blanket clip is when the hair is left on the upper half of the body and acts as a natural exercise blanket, keeping the back and loins warm.
For these types of clip most horses would be stabled at night and suitably rugged to compensate for the loss of natural coat and provided with a good waterproof rug for paddock use.