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Editorial Section - UK South West Region - The Blackdown Hills

Contact details
Halifax House, Hemyock, Devon EX15 3QW
Telephone 01823 680681
www.blackdown-hills.net
THE BLACKDOWN HILLS

The Blackdown Hills were designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1991. They form a readily identifiable landscape straddling the border of Somerset and Devon and stretch from the M5 in the north to Honiton and Axminster in the south and from Chard in the east to Culmstock in the west.

The AONB covers 360 square kilometres and sits between 150 metres and 310 metres above sea level. It is characterised by a sense of relative remoteness and tranquillity and embraces a diverse range of landscapes. From the dramatic, steep wooded north facing scarp the AONB dips gently southwards as a flat topped plateau, deeply dissected by valleys. On the tops there are wide open windswept spaces, whilst in the valleys nestle villages and hamlets surrounded by intricate and ancient patterns of small enclosed fields and a maze of winding high-hedged lanes. Its value to both residents and visitors alike lies in the integrity and tranquillity of the landscape as a unit of English countryside relatively unchanged over the last 200 years.

How The Blackdown Hills came to be designated an AONB...
The rationale for AONB designation being applied to the Blackdown Hills lies in four main areas, identified in the 1989 Landscape Assessment (Countryside Commission):

A. An Isolated and Unspoilt Rural Area �
The area has been relatively undisturbed by modern development and so ancient landscape features, special habitats, historical and archaeological sites have remained intact. The traditional pattern of villages, hamlets, paths and roads remain largely unchanged and there is an identifiable and characteristic vernacular, pastoral landscape.

B. Diversity of Landscape Patterns and Pictures
The visual quality of the area is high and is derived from the complex patterning and mosaic of landscapes. Although the scenery is varied, patterns and features are repeated again and again. Hedgerows delineate the fields and define the character of the landscape, enclosing narrow twisting lanes. There are long views over field patterned landscapes, high lying plateau dissected by steep valleys supporting a patchwork of woodland and heath, and fine avenues of beech along the ridge.
C. A Unique Geology �
The geology of the Blackdowns together with the adjoining East Devon AONB is unique in Britain. Although very rarely seen, the geology defines the topography giving rise to the flat plateau, sharp ridges and spring-lined valleys. The springs in turn have created the characteristic pattern of rough grassland, mire and wet woodland vegetation. The non-calcareous nature of the Greensand rock has led to diverse plant communities. Moreover the geology has provided the predominant vernacular building stone, the chertstone which shapes the character of much of the built-up environment.

D. A Landscape with Architectural Appeal
The landscape pattern is punctuated by many small villages, hamlets and isolated farmsteads of architectural value and distinctive character. Devon and Somerset are recognised nationally for their fine rural architecture but the Blackdowns contain a significant cluster of well preserved buildings where the architecture is particularly well defined. The predominant materials are chert and cob, with thatch, clay tiles and corrugated iron commonly found. The appeal lies in the way in which the buildings blend and fit into the surrounding working landscape.

The Visual Character of the landscape
The landscape assessment identified five different types of landscape that are seen in the Blackdown Hills:



Northern Escarpment
Dramatically steep and well wooded northern scarp. Linear east-west topography emphasised by a straight road running along the top. Also, small hedged fields.

Wooded Ridge
Softer and more rolling eastern extent of the escarpment. Well wooded, including conifer plantations. Avenues of mature beech trees on the banks alongside roads.

Upland Plateau
Gently undulating land crossed by long, straight roads bounded by mostly beech hedges and isolated mature trees. Larger fields of mostly improved pasture.

Rolling Ridgeland
Long fingers of ridgeland similar to the plateau, but the topography is more rolling, with smaller fields and avenues of trees along roadsides. Tremendous views across the valleys.


River Valleys �
Four main river valleys with same basic features of heavily wooded upper slopes spilling down into pasture, hedge and hedgerow trees. Numerous small, winding roads and isolated farmsteads.
The Natural Environment
The Blackdown Hills support a wide range of semi-natural wildlife habitats, the distribution of which is closely linked to the area's geology and topography. Many of the habitats are of national and regional importance.

Grasslands, Heathland and Mire:
Typical of Hense Moor, Southay and Gotleigh Moor, Stockland Turbaries. Species found here include Purple moor grass, rush pasture and other mires. Devils bit scabious, heath spotted orchid, marsh and meadow thistle, marbled white butterfly, small pearl-bordered fritillary, marsh fritillary, keeled skimmer dragonfly, barn owl, curlew, snipe.
Hay meadows and other species-rich grasslands � (neutral and calcareous)
These areas include Quants and Quarry Farm Fields. Common species include Common knapweed, birds foot trefoil, cowslip, corky-fruited water dropwort, pepper saxifrage and common spotted orchid, green winged orchid meadow brown butterfly, gatekeeper butterfly , marbled white butterfly, barn owl.
Lowland heathland, wet heath and acid grassland �
Typical of Black Down and Sampford Common. Species that are found include Ling Heather, bell heather, cross leaved heath & western gorse, bristle leaved bent, bracken, sheeps fescue, heath bedstraw, tormentil, lousewort, stonechats, tree pipits, grayling butterfly, dingy skipper and green hairstreak, nightjar.
Hedgerows �
These are extensively found throughout the Blackdowns. They are rich in species such as Ash, hazel, oak, field maple, hawthorn, blackthorn, willow, holly, beech, variety of woodland ground plants such as wood anemone, primrose, gatekeeper butterfly, brown hairstreak, bullfinch, bats, dormouse, common lizards.

Woodlands
Wet woodland
Ruthersleigh Moor is the best example of wet woodland. It is rich in grey willow, goat willow, alder, downy birch, ash, oak, tussock sedge, high pendulous sedge, kingcup, great horsetail, opposite leaved saxifrage, redpoll, siskin, woodcock.

Ancient broad-leaved woodland
Priors Park and Adcombe Woods are well known sites of ancient woodland. Species found here include Ash, field maple hazel small leaved lime, wild service tree, pedunculate oak, beech, hawthorn, blackthorn, spindle, dogwood wayfaring tree bluebell, primrose, wood anemone, red campion, lords and ladies, stinking iris, speckled wood ringlet butterfly, purple hairstreak, Wood white, silverwashed fritillary, wood warbler, redstart, dormouse, small pearl-bordered fritillary.


Rivers and streams
The rivers and streams of the Blackdowns are bursting with life, including kingfishers, dippers, grey wagtails, otters and trout.
SITES OF SPECIAL SCIENTIFIC INTEREST (SSSI)
There are 16 SSSIs in the Blackdown Hills ranging from the 156 hectare Blackdown and Sampford Commons to Reed Farm pit at just less than 1 hectare. In total they cover 640 ha, or just under 2% of the AONB. Of these SSSIs 79% are deemed by English Nature to be being positively managed. In addition, one site, Quants, is a candidate for Special Area of Conservation (cSAC). These are designated under the EC Habitats Directive as internationally important habitats.
Historical and Cultural Heritage
The remarkable amount of historical and archaeological remains that survive `relatively undisturbed by modern development' are one of the reasons for the Blackdowns designation as an AONB. They range from the Stone Age to WWII and our knowledge of them continues to grow.

Early Man
The landscape of the Blackdown Hills has been shaped and modified by man; from early human hunters to modern farmers and householders, the landscape continues to evolve and change. Evidence of early human activity in the Yarty valley is provided by finds of flint and chert tools and Bronze Age man left his mark with barrows such as those at Robin Hood Butts up on the plateau.

Iron Age - Roman Britain
Iron Age Hill forts, including the stro
ngly defended sites of Dumpdon Hill, Hembury and Knapp Hill, dominate the fringes of the AONB. However, evidence of Romano-British settlement is rare. Castle Neroche built on the northern escarpment overlooking the Vale of Taunton was largely established in its present form shortly after the Norman invasion, although there is evidence from both earlier Iron Age use and later, the large motte was added.

Medieval Influences
The managed woodland of Neroche Forest to the east of the Castle was used by many parishes in the area and although the Forest was enclosed into fields in the 1830s traces of woodbank survive. Much of the existing settlement pattern will have originated in the medieval period; a pattern based on dispersed hamlets and farmsteads. Many of the irregular fields and massive hedges found in the valleys, such as around Clayhidon, represent land taken directly into cultivation from woodland probably by the time of the Norman conquest. The pollen record shows that in medieval times the woodland of the area was being increasingly cleared to make way for agriculture. There is little evidence of large medieval open fields, although strip fields have been noted along the eastern part of the AONB.Many abandoned farmsteads and hamlets arise from the medieval period, established on areas of marginal land during times of great agricultural prosperity. Jacob's City at Clayhidon is one example, although many such sites survive as earthworks.

Dunkeswell Abbey
The establishment of Dunkeswell Abbey in the 13th Century is believed to have had a significant impact on the Blackdown Hills. To increase productivity on its extensive holdings in the area the monks established manor and grange farms to promote field enclosure and woodland clearance.

Wellington Monument
Wellington monument is one of the most recognisable landmarks in the AONB. Overlooking the Vale of Taunton the monument was erected in the mid 19th century to honour the 'Iron Duke', Sir Arthur Wellesley, who having defeated Napoleon chose Wellington for his title.

Wolford Chapel
Another landmark in the centre of the AONB is Wolford Chapel, owned by the Ontario government and the family chapel of General Simcoe, the first Lord Lieutenant of Ontario. Much of the plateau remained as common land, providing grazing, firewood and turf for fuel up to the 19th century.

The Parliamentary Enclosure Acts
A succession of Parliamentary Enclosure Acts resulted in the layout of regular field systems with straight hedgelined roads. Stockland Hill, enclosed in 1864, is a fine example of such a planned landscape. Beacon Hill in Upottery parish was the last area of England to be enclosed in this way and was undertaken in 1874.

Mining
Abandoned and overgrown pits and scars dot the Blackdown Hills landscape, sites from where chalk, marl, sand and gravel were extracted for use in soil improvement. Many limekiln sites are to be found particularly in the east of the area. Archeological survey has confirmed that ironworking was an important industry from prehistoric to medieval times. Large quantities of iron slag have been found together with evidence of smelting sites and opencast pits were a common feature of the plateau. Mining of the hard seam of stone within the greensand for whetstone production reached its heyday in the 18th and 19th centuries. Hill slopes around Kentisbeare and Broadhembury contain many blocked or collapsed shafts.

Cold Harbour Mill
Cold Harbour Mill built around 1800 on the western edge was sited to exploit the available water power of the river Culm and was used for wool and yarn production until its commercial closure in 1981. It was a major employer and is now managed as an educational trust and continues to play an active part in retelling the industrial history of the area.

Airbases
The World War II airbases at Dunkeswell, Upottery and Culmhead have major impacts on their local landscapes and contain many buildings and structures related to their use, as well as being a draw for overseas visitors and relations of those service men stationed here during the war.

Architecture
The distinctive architecture that has evolved in the Blackdowns is another reason given for the 1991 designation as an AONB. The local materials of chert stone, cob, thatch and clay tiles survive and are displayed in large quantities in the working houses that were constructed for a largely agriculturally based population. Many contain internal details dating back to medieval times, but often these have been reworked in the 18th or early 19th century, so that an undistinguished exterior can hide earlier origins. The local vernacular continues to evolve with new designs and aspirations beginning to play their part in the landscape. The many older buildings that do survive are at risk from unsympathetic repairs and over restoration. Barns are particularly at risk from conversions that fail to respect their distinctive character and function.

The Working Landscape
Traditional Agriculture
The beautiful Blackdown landscape owes much to traditional agriculture and thankfully this is still the largest industry in the Hills. Predominately, this takes the form of wholesale milk production, outdoor pig rearing and sheep farming with some arable farming.


Farm Diversification
Many farmers have found the need to diversify to retain liveable incomes, so it is also possible to spot the odd herd of Deer, Bison and Alpacas on the Hills.
Traditional Woodland Management
Traditional woodland management was once a key industry of the area, but sadly this is now in decline. Other uses are being sought for the extensive range of wooded areas within the Hills, which include increased recreational use, conservation and the revival of rural skills. Woodland materials are also seen as a natural resource for renewable energy and a series of biomass projects are currently being piloted in the area.

Accessibility �
Often thought of as remote, the Blackdown Hills are actually very accessible being close to a number of major roads, rail links and regional airports. This accessibility has attracted a diverse range of new businesses, ranging from home based IT, marketing, design and advertising companies to light engineering and specialist manufacturing companies. Former redundant farm buildings that once housed cows or sheep are now often filled with state of the art technology.
Exciting Activities!
There is always something happening in the Hills, from Karting to banger racing, gliding to sky diving, polo, horse racing and local Gymkhanas to village fetes and Fairs.
A fantastic range of workshops and short courses for writers, those wanting to discover their inner selves, artists, hedgerow skills, cookery the list is endless.
For a regularly updated Diary of Events see www.blackdown-hills.net/diary.htm

Exploring The Blackdown Hills...
The visitor who enjoys a range of outdoor activities will delight in the Blackdown Hills.

For those who want to seek out history and heritage, there are two ancient Hill Forts to explore, a wealth of churches and chapels, as well as the remains of a Cistercian Abbey and a Castle. During the next couple of years the World War 2 Airfields will attract veterans who travel to the area to remember the events of 60 years ago.

The area has seen some famous folks over the years - R D Blackmore, author of Lorna Doone lived at Culmstock and Joseph Kennedy, one of the Kennedy's, sadly lost his life at Dunkeswell during WW2.

Evidence of the area's industrial heritage is still to be found, especially at the working wool museum at Coldharbour. Visit Blackborough and learn more about the Whetstone Mining industry, which was still active up to the turn of the last century.

The best means to really explore the area is by foot, bicycle (although you need to be prepared to tackle a number of hills) and on horseback. The area has some wonderful treasures to discover and often you will feel that you are the first one to come across jewels such as the Otterhead Lakes or the spectacular views from the tiny road that abuts Henstridge Common. (Please note, though, that there is no access for horses and horses are not permitted at Otterhead -it is footpaths only).

For the more adventurous there is the opportunity to sky dive, fly a glider or pilot a micro-light.
For those who want a quieter life, try a days fishing for Trout or Perch at a number of different locations throughout the area.
www.blackdown-hills.net/enjoying2.htm





Food & Drink...
The Blackdown Hills is home to a mouth watering selection of food and drink too. Drawing from the natural resources, producers have made use of the landscape to create traditional and new products.

Over the centuries, the Blackdown Hills has been self sufficient with the many landscape features providing growing conditions suited to a variety of crops and beasts. The farmers that work on the land have done so for years. They still employ the traditional methods that result in the landscape retaining the natural beauty and the food they produce tasting so special. Sparkling fresh local produce can be sourced from a variety of farm shops, or delivered directly to your door.

The area has a wealth of traditional country pubs and small family run Hotels that make use of homegrown food and B&B; providers' pride themselves on producing tasty breakfasts using eggs, bacon and sausages from neighbouring farms. Village shops are the lifeblood of local communities and depend on local trade to keep going.

Hand Made in The Blackdown Hills
The tranquillity and sense of timelessness of the Blackdown Hills provides inspiration for a huge range of artists and crafts people living and working in the area.


USEFUL WEBSITES TO VISIT:
www.blackdown-hills.net

www.blackdown-hills.net/diary.htm
www.blackdown-hills.net/enjoying2.htm
www.somersetartweek.org

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